Lathe tailstocks suffer from backlash, as do family members after political discussions on Thanksgiving. In the machining context, this occurs when engaging the tailstock hand wheel in one direction, stopping, and reengaging the hand wheel in the opposite direction. This results in a lack of accuracy when reading the total net measurement from the analog numbers affixed to the tailstock spindle. Essentially, there is a void in the tailstock mechanisms that is not reflected when reading the measurement. "Play" prevents accurate measurement. This is a very common problem in many areas of machining. This problem can be minimized by making manual adjustments, but it cannot be fully eliminated through these adjustments. One solution is to install a digital readout (DRO) to track the net travel in both directions. Another solution is to machine a tailstock travel accuracy jig, to be used in conjunction with a dial indicator. Below is the way I made such a jig. Lathe tailstock accuracy is critical for many bamboo rod making tasks, especially when machining metal ferrules from raw bar stock. The use of such jigs, while drilling and reaming, will allow accurate repeatability and save time. Here is my process: (1) I measured the diameter of the tailstock spindle. (2) After securing a scrap piece of aluminum, I milled it flat on all sides. The aluminum was supported with machining parallels. Then, I chamfered all edges and made a consistent finish with 80 and 500 grit sandpapers. (3) The next step involved preparing the stock and measuring for the tailstock spindle hole. I planned to have the tailstock spindle hole on one side of the jig but centered. Further, I made sure to leave about 0.5" of solid stock from the end of the hole to the end of the jig. My goal was to eventually drill and tap through this 0.5" section of stock so that it would accept a hex cap screw. This will be discussed in more detail below. The photo on the left represents the starting point and the photo on the right represents the finished product in this next step. (4) I supported the jig with machining parallels and made sure that the jig had unobstructed clearance (top, bottom, sides) to cut the entire 1.25"-ish hole. With plenty of lubricant (AlumTap or oil for cutting), I used a center to make the preliminary shallow hole to accept the first drill bit. Then, starting with a small drill bit, I made a hole through the jig. Thereafter, I used progressively larger drill bits, and eventually larger end mills. (5) Without an end mill measuring 1.25", I moved to a boring bar and a manual offset boring head. I incrementally and slowly adjusted the offset boring head outward to make a progressively larger hole. Measuring often, I stopped cutting when my hole reached 1.25"-ish. (6) I tested the fit on the tailstock and achieve my goal of a snug fit. (7) Back at the mill, I secure the jig sideways in the milling vise. On the side of the jig with the hole, I left about 0.5" of solid stock from the end of the hole to the end of the jig. Making sure I had drilling clearance below the jig, I used a center to make a shallow centered hole. Using progressively larger drill bits, and ending with a #7, I drilled through the jig. (8) I tapped through this #7 hole using a 1/4-20 tap. (The picture on the right is the direction I tapped. The picture on the left is just to illustrate the process.) I tapped about 75% through the hole. The tapping process was started on the mill for proper support, rotating the head by hand. Thereafter, I finished tapping by hand. (9) On the side where the tap commenced, I used a 1/4" drill bit to drill just over 50% through the hole. My goal was to remove the tapped thread through the first half of the jig, just over the midway point. A simple piece of painter's tape can be used as a depth guide. (10) With a metal bandsaw, I cut through the midpoint at the bottom of the jig into the tailstock hole. I placed a hex screw with a 1/4-20 thread into the side of the hole where the thread was removed. The screw freely slid into the hole, stopping around the mid-point. Thereafter, I was able to tighten the screw, allowing it to catch the remaining thread after the mid-point. (11) It fit snugly and securely. Any slack was taken up by tightening the hex screw. (12) I attached a dial indicator with a 2" travel to a Mighty Mag Magnetic Base. I then attached the base to the top of my tailstock, retracting the dial indicator and making contact with the jig. Now, I can accurately track the net travel of my tailstock.
I engage in two types of fishing, both for “trout.” The first is pure sport fishing. I fish for selective feeding, invasive, wild brown trout. These fish are not native to Connecticut. They have overrun certain waterways and have the ability to adapt and survive even when the water warms in the summer. The second type of fishing is for native wild brook trout. Technically not trout, they are part of the char genus. Here, my focus is entirely on small streams and headwaters of larger streams and rivers. This type of fishing is part sport, part spiritual, part philosophical contemplation and part medicine. They are the most beautiful fish I have ever seen. Pound for pound, they fight like no other fish. They are spooky hunters, conditioned for survival. I’m in awe of them. In shallow, narrow streams, threats come from everywhere. Snakes, birds and other animals look for them. Warming waters choke them out of habitat. Streams dry up. Yet, they have continued to populate Connecticut for some 10,000 years. When I have the opportunity to hold one and gently return it to the water where it was taken, I’m healed and rejuvenated. They are a spiritual salve that heals the soul. One recent day in early March, I headed out to a first order, unnamed stream very deep in a Connecticut forest. There were virtually no signs of fishing pressure, which is the kind of place I prefer. I stumbled upon a nice deep pool, as the stream curved and meandered through the forest. The water was gin clear. I did not see any fish upon my approach. Yet, this pool had all the attributes of holding a native wild brook trout. With an upstream presentation of a soft hacked wet fly with an overly long tale, I wondered if my freestyled fly with an orange hotspot resembled the kind of snack found in and around this pool. Several casts and retrieves in higher water columns revealed no fish life. On my next cast, I allowed my fly to descend to a more significant depth, and it began to fall deeper into a snaking flow of water between boulders almost on the stream floor. An inquisitive wild native brook trout emerged from a boulder to investigate and to sample the feathered delicacy… Of significance, this brook trout was a survivor. Not only have he and his ancestors negotiated an ever changing landscape for some 10,000 years, but he wore the signs of an obvious struggle. With scars on his left and right flanks, he escaped the talons of one or more predators. He is a true, courageous survivor, cloaked in beautiful colors…
Recommended by my friend and fellow fly fisherman, Ted, this is the second George Black book I've read, and it was wonderful. I'm a fan of local history, and this entire book takes place in my home state of Connecticut, centered predominately around three rivers. Black discusses the American industrial revolution around moving, clean, cold water, places where trout thrive. He highlights the often shadowy struggles of stake holders laying claim to the management of such waterways. I was particularly impressed with Black teasing apart the murky line in the trout “conservation” world between stocked waters with invasive trout (such as brown trout) and our wild native brook trout. I recently fished an unnamed tributary to one of these rivers, and it was nice reliving part of this book. It was especially rewarding stumbling upon a thriving population of our wild native brook trout that seemed to navigate many challenges over time, from an industrial revolution, to warming water, to competition with predatory, invasive fish. Completed in January of 2024, this 6’6" 4wt penta (5-sided) is 100% shop-made and weighs 2.55 oz. The butt and tip are hollow built and deeply flamed. The reel seat wood insert is Thuya Burl. The cork is flor grade from Portugal. The wraps are Kimono silk in Saguaro and tipping in Golden Pavilion. The green agate stripping guide is encased in a soldered silver (blued) bezel. The ferrules were machined from silicon aluminum bronze 642 bar stock. Very much of an experimental, prototype taper, the rod flexes deep into the grip but is sufficiently fast for canopy laden small streams. It can also be used for technical work on medium sized rivers. I took it out last week for some winter small stream fishing, on an unnamed, first order stream, deep in a Connecticut forest. A fun rod. For reasons not fully understood by me, I can go on and on applauding the virtues of bamboo fly rods. Ask me about bamboo rod building history, techniques and tapers, and that conversation can go on indefinitely. I had the wonderful opportunity to speak to Project Healing Waters about CT bamboo rod making history and constructing rods from raw stock. Unfortunately, connectivity issues prevented me from projecting my presentation on a screen. So, I had to improvise, something bamboo rod builders do often.
Like many, when on the water I've experimented with just about every conceivable bag and vest on the market. Admittedly, no one bag or vest performed poorly, just differently. I was comfortably wearing my Patagonia vest for years. I found it to be the perfect size and layout for all of my gear. Yet, a couple recent experiences had me reevaluating my setup. After hooking a large, wild Farmington River brown trout, I took a plunge in the river while fumbling with my gear. Then, while on a small stream, I found myself having a particularly challenging time balancing on a slippery rock, changing flies and tippet while holding my rod. I began thinking more deeply about my on-water gear system and stumbled upon an in-depth review of the Richardson Chest Fly Box. When I saw these boxes on previous occasions, I did not fully comprehend how a square, aluminum box on my chest was going to make life easier. However, being a fan of hand craftsmanship, I gave it a more serious look. I eventually found a 3 tray Original Style model on eBay that had virtually no use. At the same time I reached out to Robert C. Hegedus, Jr., the current company owner. Robert was an absolute delight to communicate with, answered all of my questions, and informed me of his waitlist. I was added to the waitlist, but decided to purchase the available eBay model to use in the meantime. Robert stressed that my experience with the box will exceed my expectations, and I will spend more time fishing than fumbling with my gear. Robert was exactly correct. I cannot stress enough how this small box has revolutionized my angling experience. Virtually, everything I need is contained in this box and/or attached to the harness straps. Changing flies is a seamless process, and making sure that all gear is fully secured is nothing more than closing a drawer lid and snapping it closed. The Richardson Chest Fly Box methodology also forces the angler to think deeply and thoroughly about his or her process. For me this resulted in he elimination of needless and useless gear. Although this was a welcomed change, the most significant change for me is in the actual process of changing and dressing flies. The process is unified, consistent and coherent. This results in less time fumbling with gear and more time fishing, as highlighted by Robert. And with this trial run of my eBay purchased 3 tray Original Style, I am already making plans about further customization when it is my turn for Robert to work is magic and build my chest box. With the long, rich history of the Richardson Chest Fly Box, there are undertones of vintage fly gear, which is fully complimented by Robert's innovation and beautiful craftsmanship. Completed in December of 2023, this 6’ 3wt is 100% shop-made and weighs 2.8 oz. The butt and tip are solid built. The reel seat wood insert is Bolivian Rosewood. The cork is flor grade from Portugal. The wraps are Kimono silk in Chokko, Black tipping and Tuscan Sun accents at the ferrules. The beige agate stripping guide is encased in a soldered silver (blued) bezel that complements the cane and silk colors. This tactical small stream rod is a prototype and designed specifically for canopy laden streams. The progressive taper is (on the slow side of) fast. It truly feels like an extension of one’s arm. I took it out last week for some winter small stream fishing. I fooled brook and brown trout by making delicate presentations both up and down stream. One of my absolute favorite times to be on the water chasing wild native fish is in the dead of winter. With life in a frozen condition, it almost seems like nothing is around. Yet, with a flowing, spring fed small stream, life is often a few inches beneath the surface.
I headed out with my newly made 6’ 3wt. If a cane rod could talk, this rod would utter the words, “Small Stream Special.” Designed for canopy laden small streams, this technical rod’s progressive taper feels like an extension of one’s arm. From casting tight loops up and down stream, to roll casting, this rod did it all in tight quarters. Organized with my Richardson Chest Fly Box, I began my adventure. I was rewarded with char after char. And consistent with my last couple trips to this stream, I brought a wild (non-native) brown to hand. Each time I visit this stream, I become fueled and energized by God’s beautiful creation. I had a wonderful time at the annual Connecticut Fly Fisherman’s Association’s Exposition. It was nice to catchup with friends and present my bamboo rods to the local fly fishing community. On hand I had a 6’ 3wt hex, a 6’6” 4wt penta, and a 8’ 5wt hex. I truly appreciated all of the abundant interest and questions. After 6+ hours of talking and engaging, I was exhausted! It was great to have my friend and master toolmaker Art Leclair at my table as company. We often lament the time of reconning when we step on the scale at the doctor’s office. Bamboo fly rods are no different. Assigning a line weight may be a bit too personal. At the 2023 Catskill Rodmaker’s Gathering, noted fly fishing historian, John Shaner, suggested that makers may want to consider leaving the line weight notation off of their bamboo rods. Rather, Shaner went on to recommend that a given line weight is best determined by the end user. Shaner concluded that line weight notations are just a suggestion. I am blessed to have many things in life, one on of which is my casting area. Exiting the back door of my shop, it is surrounded by woods and a stone all. It is long and reminiscent of a meandering stream, providing the perfect attributes to test cast bamboo fly rods. It is a great place to spend time and to allow a given rod to provide valuable feedback as to its performance characteristics. When test casting, I experiment with a variety of line weights and reels. More than once I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the results. Noted fly fishing author, Dave Hughes, has recommended a good way to slow a rod down is to simply go up a line weight. This is wonderful advice. With the variability of fly lines on the market, it is virtually impossible for a 4 weight rod to perform the same with any 4 weight line. But to Hughes’ point, one may also choose to take an active role in a rod’s performance. I’ve certainly done this in my own fishing. One of my main fishing rods has been a 7’ for a 4 weight. It is a medium action rod that gracefully places a 4 weight double taper line on the surface of my tailwater when targeting selective browns. However, when on my canopy laden small streams, I find the action a bit slow and a need for tighter loops. Thus, I fish it with a 3 weight double taper line on such small streams, and its progressive taper is a small stream dream. I recently completed three new rods: 6’ 3wt; 6’6” 4wt; and 8’ 5wt. I test casted all with multiple line weights. I executed short casts, long casts and roll casts. I was utterly confused because I found myself thinking deeply about all kinds of different fishing applications with each rod. While I noted line weights on each rod, I came to realize those notations were truly…just a suggestion.
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AuthorMichael D. Day, Maker Categories
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October 2024
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