 Lathe tailstocks suffer from backlash, as do family members after political discussions on Thanksgiving. In the machining context, this occurs when engaging the tailstock hand wheel in one direction, stopping, and reengaging the hand wheel in the opposite direction. This results in a lack of accuracy when reading the total net measurement from the analog numbers affixed to the tailstock spindle. Essentially, there is a void in the tailstock mechanisms that is not reflected when reading the measurement. "Play" prevents accurate measurement. This is a very common problem in many areas of machining. This problem can be minimized by making manual adjustments, but it cannot be fully eliminated through these adjustments. One solution is to install a digital readout (DRO) to track the net travel in both directions. Another solution is to machine a tailstock travel accuracy jig, to be used in conjunction with a dial indicator. Below is the way I made such a jig. Lathe tailstock accuracy is critical for many bamboo rod making tasks, especially when machining metal ferrules from raw bar stock. The use of such jigs, while drilling and reaming, will allow accurate repeatability and save time. Here is my process: (1) I measured the diameter of the tailstock spindle. (2) After securing a scrap piece of aluminum, I milled it flat on all sides. The aluminum was supported with machining parallels. Then, I chamfered all edges and made a consistent finish with 80 and 500 grit sandpapers. (3) The next step involved preparing the stock and measuring for the tailstock spindle hole. I planned to have the tailstock spindle hole on one side of the jig but centered. Further, I made sure to leave about 0.5" of solid stock from the end of the hole to the end of the jig. My goal was to eventually drill and tap through this 0.5" section of stock so that it would accept a hex cap screw. This will be discussed in more detail below. The photo on the left represents the starting point and the photo on the right represents the finished product in this next step. (4) I supported the jig with machining parallels and made sure that the jig had unobstructed clearance (top, bottom, sides) to cut the entire 1.25"-ish hole. With plenty of lubricant (AlumTap or oil for cutting), I used a center to make the preliminary shallow hole to accept the first drill bit. Then, starting with a small drill bit, I made a hole through the jig. Thereafter, I used progressively larger drill bits, and eventually larger end mills. (5) Without an end mill measuring 1.25", I moved to a boring bar and a manual offset boring head. I incrementally and slowly adjusted the offset boring head outward to make a progressively larger hole. Measuring often, I stopped cutting when my hole reached 1.25"-ish. (6) I tested the fit on the tailstock and achieve my goal of a snug fit. (7) Back at the mill, I secure the jig sideways in the milling vise. On the side of the jig with the hole, I left about 0.5" of solid stock from the end of the hole to the end of the jig. Making sure I had drilling clearance below the jig, I used a center to make a shallow centered hole. Using progressively larger drill bits, and ending with a #7, I drilled through the jig. (8) I tapped through this #7 hole using a 1/4-20 tap. (The picture on the right is the direction I tapped. The picture on the left is just to illustrate the process.) I tapped about 75% through the hole. The tapping process was started on the mill for proper support, rotating the head by hand. Thereafter, I finished tapping by hand. (9) On the side where the tap commenced, I used a 1/4" drill bit to drill just over 50% through the hole. My goal was to remove the tapped thread through the first half of the jig, just over the midway point. A simple piece of painter's tape can be used as a depth guide. (10) With a metal bandsaw, I cut through the midpoint at the bottom of the jig into the tailstock hole. I placed a hex screw with a 1/4-20 thread into the side of the hole where the thread was removed. The screw freely slid into the hole, stopping around the mid-point. Thereafter, I was able to tighten the screw, allowing it to catch the remaining thread after the mid-point. (11) It fit snugly and securely. Any slack was taken up by tightening the hex screw. (12) I attached a dial indicator with a 2" travel to a Mighty Mag Magnetic Base. I then attached the base to the top of my tailstock, retracting the dial indicator and making contact with the jig. Now, I can accurately track the net travel of my tailstock.  Like many, when on the water I've experimented with just about every conceivable bag and vest on the market. Admittedly, no one bag or vest performed poorly, just differently. I was comfortably wearing my Patagonia vest for years. I found it to be the perfect size and layout for all of my gear. Yet, a couple recent experiences had me reevaluating my setup. After hooking a large, wild Farmington River brown trout, I took a plunge in the river while fumbling with my gear. Then, while on a small stream, I found myself having a particularly challenging time balancing on a slippery rock, changing flies and tippet while holding my rod. I began thinking more deeply about my on-water gear system and stumbled upon an in-depth review of the Richardson Chest Fly Box. When I saw these boxes on previous occasions, I did not fully comprehend how a square, aluminum box on my chest was going to make life easier. However, being a fan of hand craftsmanship, I gave it a more serious look.  I eventually found a 3 tray Original Style model on eBay that had virtually no use. At the same time I reached out to Robert C. Hegedus, Jr., the current company owner. Robert was an absolute delight to communicate with, answered all of my questions, and informed me of his waitlist. I was added to the waitlist, but decided to purchase the available eBay model to use in the meantime. Robert stressed that my experience with the box will exceed my expectations, and I will spend more time fishing than fumbling with my gear. Robert was exactly correct.  I cannot stress enough how this small box has revolutionized my angling experience. Virtually, everything I need is contained in this box and/or attached to the harness straps. Changing flies is a seamless process, and making sure that all gear is fully secured is nothing more than closing a drawer lid and snapping it closed.  The Richardson Chest Fly Box methodology also forces the angler to think deeply and thoroughly about his or her process. For me this resulted in he elimination of needless and useless gear. Although this was a welcomed change, the most significant change for me is in the actual process of changing and dressing flies. The process is unified, consistent and coherent. This results in less time fumbling with gear and more time fishing, as highlighted by Robert.  And with this trial run of my eBay purchased 3 tray Original Style, I am already making plans about further customization when it is my turn for Robert to work is magic and build my chest box. With the long, rich history of the Richardson Chest Fly Box, there are undertones of vintage fly gear, which is fully complimented by Robert's innovation and beautiful craftsmanship.
 Skills are subject to continual development. When I commenced building bamboo rods, I relied on power-tools to bring stock into a “manageable” condition. I aggressively removed stock to the desired workable size. I dictated to the power tools exactly what I wanted to achieve - the harder you push stock into a sander, the more stock is removed. Aside from machining metal components, the more rods I built, the more I gravitated toward hand-tools. Hand-tools provide a quiet environment where one can gently sculpt, shave, cut, bend, and otherwise manipulate stock. More importantly, hand tools force one to become part of the process, rather than dictating the process. Dismayed by the lack of quality, I eventually entered the wonderful world of Japanese hand tools.  Japanese Dovetail Pull Saw - I’ve come to rely heavily on my Japanese hand saw. Rod builders are continually adjusting strip length base on where they are in the building process. Rather than having a power tool rip through a strip of bamboo and cause it to fracture at an undesired location, my Japanese handsaw provides perfect, slow, crisp cuts at my target locations. Japanese Iwasaki File - Like many builders, bamboo nodes are a source of frustration and problems. We do everything to eliminate their troubling presence. We grind them down, press then, sand them, and even yell at them. A Japanese file will properly put the builder in his place. By allowing the file to cut, the builder is merely guiding the file in the desired direction. Soon, a small repetitive action of guiding the file will reduce the node to powder.  Japanese Froe - I started splitting culms with a froe. I had no idea what I was doing and the resulting bamboo strips proved this point. I then tried a bandsaw jig, a table saw jig, and star cutters. I then came full circle, only to start back at my froe. I tried again and settled on the use of a froe, vice and my two hands. My results have been the best, resulting in plentiful, workable strips.
There is a larger lesson to learn. Japanese hand-tools cannot be forced. Forcing such tools will induce error. However, when we accept our position in the process as maker and allow the tool to do the work for which it was designed, we create a wonderful team. The maker becomes part of the process, rather than a dictating force. Instead of prying back the pedals of a spring flower, we allow it to open when it is ready. Accepting our position in the larger process sometimes means slowing down, backing off, and witnessing the beauty unfold…when it is ready. When I fly fish on small streams, I cover a lot of distance. The majority of the streams I visit are buried deep in forests, and hike-ins can be long. Once on a stream, I'm constantly moving, and staying hydrated is a must. With proper hydration, I can stay out longer and go father. I don't find packing in water to be practical, and going without is not an option. I followed Grayl for awhile and eventually became a customer. I'm sold. The 16.9 oz UltraPress, Covert Edition, in Olive Drab (so I don't spook any char!) is part of my everyday (fly fishing) carry. With its smaller size, I can easily clip it to a back belt loop via a carabiner, so it is out of the way.    |
