The vast majority of bamboo rod builders are faced with the continual task of sharpening a plane iron. Some, however, are not engaged in this task, namely makers who use hand or powered mills. But, for those of us who hand plane, understanding the unique obstacles we face is critical to planing success. ![]() Let’s begin by examining how planing bamboo on metal forms is different from planing a piece of wood. When planing bamboo, only a very small amount of the iron is touching the bamboo strip. This is because the bamboo strip is quite thin. So, while the center of the iron is maintaining contact with the bamboo strip, the right and left sides of the iron are hovering over the metal planing forms and contacting nothing. As the bamboo strip is planed down to the forms, the iron will eventually touch the forms on the right and left. One might assume that the iron that touches the metal forms becomes less sharp than the portion of the iron in contact with the bamboo, but this is usually not the case. The section of the iron touching the bamboo will dull quicker. Bamboo is rough on irons and can cause them to dull relatively quickly. So, when planing bamboo we see that only a very small portion of the iron edge is used, and as such, the edge will dull differently at different locations. Although it may be difficult to see, in the above photo, there is a shininess or "glint" in the center portion of the iron. This is the result of light shining off of the duller radius that forms from wear. The far left and right of the iron do not reveal as much glint and therefore remain sharper. ![]() Another interesting difference when planing bamboo is that a bamboo strip will often have different levels of moisture and differences of “grain” along the strip. Prior to planing bamboo, heat can be introduced into the bamboo numerous times. One may flame the bamboo culm, usually for aesthetic purposes. Thereafter, makers often heat and press nodes. Then makers use heat at various points along the bamboo to straighten the strips. And last, makers will often heat treat the bamboo strips, even if previously flamed. We see that heat actually changes the physical properties of the bamboo strips. But more importantly, we see that more heat may have been introduced at various points along the bamboo strip than at other points. Thus, when planing an entire strip of bamboo, the maker is using the iron to make consistent long cuts, along the bamboo strip with inconsistent moisture levels and with inconsistent physical properties at various points. So, while one portion of the bamboo may be planing nicely, another portion, often at or around the nodes where additional heat is used, may be more difficult to plane. This can result in chips or lifted pieces of bamboo. Compare and contrast this to planing a piece of wood with a relatively consistent moisture content throughout. And on top of this, the ambient humidity in one's shop, which may change throughout the year, can impact the moisture in bamboo. To combat this issue, some will introduce moisture back into the bamboo strip when planing. Although this solves the moisture issue and makes planing easier, I've found that it can reintroduce a host of problems. Moisture can reintroduce bends in the bamboo strips, and nodes can mysteriously pop out. As such, my personal preference is to focus on planing and sharpening techniques rather than reintroducing moisture. ![]() So, how does all of this relate to iron sharpening? Well, first a bit about “sharp.” Books have been written on sharpening, and those may be worth reading. But understanding what is or what is not sharp is not an overly complex concept. In its basic form, two “planes” (here the bottom of the iron and the operative bevel) meet at a point, which forms an edge. A duller edge has a more significant radius. When sharpening an iron, the goal is to reduce the radius. Of course, without any amplification, our human eyes can only see so small, and it is difficult to see such a radius. But there are clues. Our eyes can usually determine if an iron needs sharpening. If you take an iron and tilt it in various directions, and you can see glint at any point along the edge, the iron needs sharpening. A properly sharpened iron will not have any visible glint along the edge. ![]() Glint, however, will not tell you the sharpness of a given edge. Rather, it will only tell you if the edge needs sharpening. And herein lies one of the sharpening mysteries. Some believe that a better result will ensue with an edge that is sharpened with a 30,000 grit wet stone vs. a 3,000 grit wet stone. However, the finer the radius at the edge, the more fragile it is and the sooner it will break down and show glint. In my experience, polishing to about 3,000 or 4,000 grit (or their equivalent) is usually sufficient for bamboo rod making. (I’ve even had consistent luck at 1,000 grit or its equivalent.) ![]() That being said, I've polished with an agate stone, which is on par with a 10,000 grit wet stone. Although I’ve found no material difference in performance initially, the edge did breakdown much earlier, which impeded my planing results much more quickly. And I have not even discussed block plane nor iron preference. The reason for this is that the plane, the iron and the sharpening system is secondary to a nice, consistent, glint free edge, regardless of the way it is achieved and maintained. ![]() On to my current system… I prefer a vintage Stanley block plane, originally made in my home state of Connecticut, along with a replacement Hock A2 Cryo iron. I’ve found the vintage Stanley’s micro iron adjustments to be unparalleled. While there are many ways to get from point A to Z, for my own needs I find Arkansas stones to be perfect for my bamboo planing work. I do like to establish the initial bevel with diamond stones. I can be assured that I have the desired angle consistently imparted in the iron. But thereafter, I'm not concerned with removing a lot of metal when sharpening. Rather, my focus is to touch up the edge often and to maintain a consistent polished finish along the bevel, and my Arkansas stones do a great job at these tasks. Arkansas stones are not graded by grit level, but rather by hardness. The harder the stone, the more dense the stone. I typically use three stones in soft (coarse), hard (fine) and black (extra-fine). Rarely do Arkansas stones require lapping to remain flat. But if and when they do, a diamond stone with mineral oil can do the trick. ![]() My stones, along with a leather strop and some sharpening tools, sit in a sharping holder jig that i made from scrap wood. (The leather strop is typically used to make sure the burr is removed on the previously flattened back of the iron.) The stones are glued to wood, which I stained, and pockets in my jig are lined with adhesive cork to prevent sliding when sharpening. My sharpening angle jig is screwed into a block of wood with rubber feet in front of my stones. With this positioning, I can easily set the desired sharpening angle and immediately bring it to my stones. There is a "lip" on my sharpening holder jig that is secured in the vice of a workbench directly to the left of my planing bench, making access simple and preventing my jig from moving while sharpening. ![]() Unlike wet stones that need to be soaked in water, which can also cause block plane and iron rust, I use mineral oil as a honing liquid on my Arkansas stones. Not only does it keep the metal pieces from nesting in the stone, it keeps all metal surfaces well protected with oil lubrication. Further, unlike wet stones that require frequent lapping to avoid “cupping,” Arkansas stones maintain their flatness for a much longer period of time. There is no perfect system, and there are many different types of stones and systems available. However, the block plane, iron and sharpening system is useless if the maker does not maintain a glint-free edge at the appropriate sharpness. And, I’ve found the best way to keep glint removed from iron edges is to maintain a simple process, free of unnecessary obstacles. I had a wonderful time speaking again at the Connecticut Fly Fisherman's Association. Although I'm a proud member, I rarely have time to attend meetings. Yet, I'm happy to give back with periodic talks.
I fly fish, almost, exclusively on cold moving water. The complexities of trout habitat has me returning again and again all year round. I can't get enough, and I love to share my thoughts and experience. My talk offered a fresh approach on classic upstream fly fishing. I defined and discussed common problems of moving water, presentation and fly selection. I then discussed possible solutions to these problems, and a reasonable approach to an upstream presentation of all life stages of aquatic insects, in all water columns. I concluded with a discussion of best practices when tying, modifying and selecting fly patterns to fish. Hook: TMC 300, #8
Thread: Red UNI-Thread, 8/0 Tail: Peacock Swords Tag: Flat Gold Tinsel Body: Orange Silk and Peacock Herl Underwing: Orange Silk Wing: Woodchuck Hackle: Grizzly, Wet ![]() Completed in 2024, this 8’6" 6wt is 100% shop-made and weighs 4.45 oz.. The butt and tip are hollow built and flamed. The reel seat insert and grip are made from flor grade cork stock imported from Portugal. The Olive silk wraps are accented by the silk tipping in Mustard, seamlessly transitioning to the cane. The fabricated, green agate stone is encased in a soldered silver bezel and stainless steel hoop, and compliments both the cane and wrap colorings. The ferrules are machined from silicon aluminum bronze 642 bar stock, snake guides fabricated from stainless steel wire, and the tip tops fabricated from stainless steel wire and nickel silver bar stock. All metal on the rod is blued, with the exception of the bright nickel silver ferrule plug, holding a hand tapered flor grade cork cone. ![]() This rod was designed to wrangle in bass and to efficiently deliver larger flies to their intended destinations. Sufficiently capable of handling both warm and cold water species, the swelled butt and hollowing throughout pair nicely to allow a crisp recovery along with fighting power. I had the wonderful opportunity to speak to The Hartford Sportsmen’s Club about bamboo fly rod history in Connecticut. The innovation and ingenuity that occurred in Connecticut with respect to the bamboo fly rod is remarkable. I'm enthusiastic about telling the story, as I believe it should never be forgotten.
Many praise modern epoxies for both their strength and longevity in widely diverse temperatures and conditions. While there is truth to such advances, it is critical that careful attention is given to both surfaces contacting the epoxy and the space between such surfaces.
After initially turning my ferrule stations (cane blank area that will be affixed to the ferrule), I make sure that there is adequate space between the ferrule and cane surfaces, thereby allowing the epoxy to expand. Another critical step for success is to make sure that the internal portion of the ferrules is “roughed up” with an abrasive, such as sandpaper. Similarly, I make sure the ferrule station cane is also sufficiently rough. With two roughed surfaces, the epoxy will adhere better as it expands and hardens into all crevices. All surfaces that will come in contact with epoxy are cleaned with denatured alcohol. This will removed grease, dust and other chemicals. These areas are allowed to sufficiently dry. Thereafter, the epoxy is prepared. It is imperative that the epoxy sufficiently covers the entire ferrule station and the metal inside the ferrule. This is accomplished by not only slathering epoxy on the ferrule stations but also using a toothpick or other tool to coat the inside of the ferrule that will come in contact with the cane. With so much epoxy, it will need a way to escape when the ferrule station is pressed into the ferrule. This is accomplished by etching a shallow line down the length of the ferrule station with the edge of a small file. What is the relationship between cane and caddis in Connecticut? Connecticut was home to two of the greatest minds in cane rod building and caddis fly pattern development, E.W. Edwards and Gary LaFontaine, respectively. On a recent outing, I channeled a connection with Edwards and LaFontaine. I fished one of my cane rods that was built with multiple techniques developed by Edwards. At the end of my rod was LaFontaine’s Deep Sparkle Pupa caddis pattern. The Edwards-LaFontaine connection worked, and I was rewarded.
Book Review: Tying and Fishing the Fuzzy Nymphs by Ernest "Polly" Rosborough…Innovator of Simplicity9/9/2024
![]() Just as Frank Sawyer’s skill, observation and artistry brought about the pheasant tail nymph, Polly Rosborough provided the world with the Casual Dress, the Near Enough, among many others. Sawyer was able to see what few anglers saw, the essence of a swimming nymph from the perspective of a trout, and Rosborough has done the same. Rosborough, like Sawyer, was a reductionists, thereby capturing the essence of aquatic life. Tying flies with two to three materials, Rosborough’s flies demonstrated “life,” and life is a trigger for trout. Today Rosborough’s Casual Dress has been further modified by Dave Hughes with the use of spun squirrel hair, and these patterns in rust, olive and tan/brown/gray, can solve problems on the river when other flies fall short. ![]() This is a wonderful book, providing the reader with not only Rosborough’s fly patterns, but his suggested best practices in terms of presentation. I’ve presented his fly patterns in all directions on small streams and larger rivers, and fooled trout when nothing else seemed to work. ![]() The locations I like to fish are far removed from anglers. These locations often require a bit more effort to reach, are not terribly well known, but visits are often rewarding. On a recent summer evening, I ventured out to one such spot. Virtually inaccessible by hiking paths, it required a fair amount of wading. As night descended on the river, navigating dark pocket water became exceedingly more difficult, but it was all worth it. Moving selective brown trout to take an artificial fly, requires all parts of the fly fishing puzzle to fit together snugly. |
AuthorMichael D. Day, Maker Categories
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